Žižkov

Prague's rough-edged pub republic — reputedly more bars per capita than anywhere in Europe, crowned by the rocket-like TV Tower with David Černý's crawling babies. Working-class roots, student energy, and honest prices, now gentrifying at the edges. A friend sends you here for the best cheap night out in Prague. It's scruffy; that's the charm.

Key facts

Frequently asked questions

Where should I drink in Žižkov?

Almost anywhere — the district's claim to fame is its pub density. Start around Bořivojova or Krymská-adjacent streets, look for places with handwritten menus and Czech voices, and expect to pay well under Old Town prices for excellent tank beer.

What's the deal with the Olšany cemeteries?

Prague's vast, wildly atmospheric main cemetery complex on Žižkov's eastern edge — Franz Kafka is buried in the adjacent New Jewish Cemetery (metro A, Želivského). Peaceful, free, and one of the city's most underrated walks.

How do I get to Žižkov?

No metro runs through its core, which is partly why it stayed cheap — take tram 5, 9, 15 or 26 from the center, or metro A to Jiřího z Poděbrad or Flora and walk downhill in. The TV Tower is 5 minutes from Jiřího z Poděbrad station.

Is Žižkov gentrifying?

The lower streets near Vinohrady definitely are — specialty coffee and brunch have arrived. But the pub-on-every-corner core is intact, and prices remain among the lowest in central Prague. Come before that changes.

Is the Žižkov TV Tower worth going up?

On a clear day, yes — the observation deck at 93 meters is open daily from 9:00 to midnight, and it's the one viewpoint in Prague that isn't mobbed. Bonus: from up there you can't see the tower itself, which locals will tell you improves the view.

What is Vítkov Hill?

The long ridge on Žižkov's northern edge, topped by the National Monument and one of the world's largest equestrian statues — Hussite general Jan Žižka, the district's namesake. The terrace view over the city is free and gloriously uncrowded.

Is Žižkov safe?

Yes — its 'rough' reputation is decades out of date. It's scruffy and lively rather than dangerous; usual late-night city sense applies, and the main annoyance is finding your tram stop after the fourth pub.

What are the babies on the TV Tower?

David Černý's 'Miminka' — giant faceless bronze babies crawling up the tower's pillars, installed in 2000 and now permanent. There are copies at ground level on Kampa island if you want a close look.

Nearby in Ask Prague

• Vítkov Hill & Jan Žižka MonumentPark0.92 km · 12 min walk
• Vinohradský pivovarBar1.04 km · 13 min walk
• EskaRestaurant1.04 km · 13 min walk
• Bukowski's BarBar1.05 km · 13 min walk
• Jiřák Farmers' Market (Tržiště na Jiřáku)Market1.23 km · 15 min walk