Ciya Sofrasi (Çiya Sofrası)

Musa Dağdeviren's landmark in Kadıköy market, reviving forgotten Anatolian regional dishes you won't see anywhere else, served cafeteria-style from a changing daily spread. Prices are fair, the food is extraordinary. Yes, a friend sends you across the water just for this. It's a genuine destination, not a scene.

Key facts

Frequently asked questions

How do I get there?

Take the ferry to Kadıköy and walk about five minutes into the market on Güneşlibahçe Sokak. It's right in the heart of the food stalls, so combine it with a market graze.

Is it vegetarian-friendly?

Surprisingly yes. The rotating selection is rich in olive-oil vegetable dishes, wild greens and grain-based plates, so vegetarians eat very well here, arguably better than at a typical kebab house.

What makes Çiya Sofrası special?

Chef Musa Dağdeviren has spent decades hunting down near-forgotten regional recipes from across Turkey and serving them here, so you eat dishes you literally can't find elsewhere. It's been celebrated worldwide, including on Netflix's Chef's Table, but it stays humble and delicious.

How does ordering work?

For the hot dishes it's partly point-and-choose from the steam counter and kebab grill; you can also order kebabs and stews from the menu. Grab what looks good, tell them, and they'll tally it up, this is casual, not fine dining.

Is it expensive?

No, it's very reasonable for the quality, roughly a mid-range lunch that punches far above its price. You can eat brilliantly here without spending like at a white-tablecloth restaurant.

Do they serve alcohol?

No, Çiya is dry, so it's food-focused rather than a meyhane-style evening. Come for the cooking; drink your rakı elsewhere.

Do I need a reservation?

Generally no; it's walk-in and cafeteria-paced. It can get busy at peak lunch, so going a little before or after the rush means a calmer table.

What should I order?

Whatever's on the daily spread, since it rotates, plus their unusual regional kebabs and the famous sour, herby stews. Don't miss the vegetable and wild-herb dishes and save room for the candied-fruit desserts.

Nearby in Ask Istanbul

• Kadikoy Market (Kadıköy Çarşısı)Market0 km · 0 min walk
• Kadikoy (Kadıköy)Neighborhood0.09 km · 1 min walk
• Kadıköy Çiya KebapRestaurant0.24 km · 3 min walk
• Baylan PastanesiCafé0.31 km · 4 min walk
• Karga BarBar0.35 km · 4 min walk