Yaoji Chaogan

A no-frills old-Beijing joint by the Drum Tower famous for chaogan — garlicky pork liver and intestine stew — plus excellent pork baozi. Anthony Bourdain-approved, absurdly cheap (a full breakfast runs 20-30 RMB), open from 6am. It's offal-forward and unapologetic; if that scares you, get the dumplings and douzhi-free breakfast anyway.

Key facts

Frequently asked questions

Is Yaoji the place Anthony Bourdain went?

Yes — the Gulou branch got a burst of fame when Bourdain (and, on a separate occasion, then-US Vice President Biden's entourage era put nearby spots on the map) featured Beijing's humble eats. It was a local institution long before television found it.

How much does a meal cost?

It's one of the cheapest famous restaurants in Beijing — a bowl of chaogan plus a steamer of baozi runs around 20-30 RMB. Five people can eat lunch for under 100 RMB.

Is there a queue?

At weekend lunch, yes — waits can hit an hour since it's small and famous. Breakfast before 9am or an off-hour afternoon visit usually means walking straight in. Service is brusque and fast; that's the genre.

What should I order if I can't do offal?

The pork-and-scallion baozi are excellent on their own, and there are noodles, zhajiang-style dishes, and simple sides. A perfectly good breakfast here never touches liver — though one brave sip of chaogan is the whole point of the trip.

What is chaogan, exactly?

Despite the name ('fried liver'), it's a glossy, starch-thickened stew of pork liver and intestines heavy on garlic — an old-Beijing breakfast classic. Locals drink it straight from the bowl, no spoon, rotating the bowl as they sip, with baozi on the side.

What are the hours?

Roughly 6am to 10:30pm daily, which makes it one of the few legendary Beijing spots where you can eat a real local breakfast at dawn before hitting the Drum Tower and hutongs.

Is it tourist-friendly?

It's a workers' canteen at heart — order at the counter, share tables, bus your own expectations. Picture menus and pointing get you through, and the staff have seen every confused foreigner variation. Go with humility and you'll love it.

Where is it and how do I get there?

No. 311 Gulou East Street, a few minutes' walk from the Drum and Bell Towers — take Line 8 to Shichahai. It pairs perfectly with a morning walk around Houhai lake.

Nearby in Ask Beijing

• The Orchid BarBar0.15 km · 2 min walk
• ModernistaBar0.23 km · 3 min walk
• Dali CourtyardRestaurant0.39 km · 5 min walk
• Great Leap Brewing No. 6 CourtyardBar0.47 km · 6 min walk
• Drum Tower and Bell TowerAttraction0.48 km · 6 min walk