Ghost Street (Guijie)

A mile of Dongzhimen Inner Street strung with red lanterns and packed with well over a hundred restaurants, many open into the small hours — Beijing's late-night eating institution. Spicy crayfish is the signature; Hu Da is the famous queue. Loud, neon, gloriously chaotic. Come hungry after 9pm, not for a quiet dinner.

Key facts

Frequently asked questions

How much should I budget?

About 50-150 RMB per person depending on appetite — crayfish is sold by the portion and adds up if you get ambitious. Beer is cheap; the damage comes from ordering 'just one more' round of crayfish.

Why is it called Ghost Street?

The name (簋街, Guijie) is a pun — the character actually refers to an ancient bronze food vessel, but it sounds like 'ghost street,' a nickname earned in the 1990s when the red-lantern-lit all-night restaurant strip glowed eerily after dark. No ghosts, just crayfish.

Is it really open 24 hours?

The street's claim to fame is its round-the-clock culture, and several big names serve into the small hours or all night — but not every restaurant does. After 2am your choices narrow; between 9pm and 1am everything is roaring.

What should I eat there?

Mala xiaolongxia — spicy crayfish — is the street's signature, best in summer. Beyond that: grilled fish (kaoyu), bullfrog hotpot, skewers, and roasted lamb leg. Most kitchens lean Sichuan-Chongqing spicy.

Which restaurant is the famous one?

Hu Da (胡大) is the crayfish institution, with several storefronts on the street and queues that can run past a hundred numbers on summer nights. Grab a ticket, then stroll the street or drink a beer while you wait.

Is it a tourist trap?

No — visitors come, but the core clientele is Beijingers on late-night crayfish runs, post-KTV groups, and night-shift workers. Quality varies by restaurant, so follow the queues: the busy places are busy for a reason.

Is it tourist-friendly if I don't speak Chinese?

Yes, with picture menus and pointing you'll do fine, though English is limited. Download a translation app, learn 'bu la' (not spicy) if you need it, and embrace the chaos — half the tables around you will be locals doing exactly what you're doing.

How do I get there?

Line 5 to Beixinqiao or Line 2 to Dongzhimen, then walk about five minutes — the street runs between the two stations along Dongzhimen Inner Street. Taxis at 1am are easy to flag here.

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