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Felice a Testaccio

8.1Friend Score / 10

#9 of 20 Restaurants in Rome

$$
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Felice a Testaccio is the Roman institution (since 1936) famous for tableside-tossed cacio e pepe and rigorous tradition. Book ahead: it's popular and reservations are essentially required. In residential Testaccio, it delivers the full Roman menu across the week. Come for the cacio e pepe theater and stay for the classics.

Key facts

Hours
Mon 12:30-14:30, 19:30-22:30
Tue 12:30-14:30, 19:30-22:30
Wed 12:30-14:30, 19:30-22:30
Thu 12:30-14:30, 19:30-23:00
Fri 12:30-14:30, 19:30-23:00
Sat 12:30-14:30, 19:30-23:00
Sun 12:30-14:30, 19:30-22:30
Price$$
Phone
Website
Nearest transitMetro B Piramide (10 min walk); trams 3, 8
Time needed1.5-2 hours
Best time to goWeekday lunch or early dinner; reserve in advance
Last verifiedJuly 15, 2026

Friend Score

8.1/10
  • Value8.2
  • iconic7.5
  • Freshness9.3
  • excellence8.0
  • Crowd level5.5
  • Authenticity8.8
  • Accessibility7.0
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Frequently asked questions

Can they accommodate dietary needs?
The menu is classic Roman, heavy on pork and pecorino, but staff can suggest options; flag allergies when booking. Vegetarians have some pastas and vegetables. Communicate needs ahead of time.
Is it touristy?
It's well known and draws visitors, but it's rooted in local Testaccio and Romans still eat here. The tradition-first ethos keeps it honest. Busy and iconic, not a trap.
How do I get to Testaccio?
It's about a 10-minute walk from Metro B Piramide, or take tram 3 or 8. Testaccio is a real residential food neighborhood south of the center. Pair the meal with the market or Monte Testaccio.
Is it open every day?
Yes, it serves lunch and dinner daily, with slightly later closing Thursday to Saturday. That seven-day schedule makes it handy when other trattorias close Sunday or Monday. Still, book ahead.
How much does it cost?
Mid-range: pastas and mains are moderately priced for the quality and reputation. A full meal with wine is reasonable for a landmark trattoria. Good value given the fame.
Do I need a reservation?
Yes, effectively. Felice is very popular and books up, so reserve ahead rather than hoping for a walk-in. Evenings and weekends are the tightest. Booking secures the experience without a wait.
What's the deal with the cacio e pepe?
It's the signature: staff toss and finish it tableside, and it's justly famous for its balance and creaminess. Order it. It's the single dish most people come for, and it lives up to the billing.
What else should I order?
Round out with other Roman staples: carbonara, amatriciana, abbacchio (lamb), and Thursday's gnocchi if it's on. Puntarelle and classic antipasti in season are great. Trust the traditional card.

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Last reviewed July 15, 2026 by AskTheCity Editorial.