Tremé

Tremé is the oldest African American neighborhood in the country — birthplace of second lines, home to Congo Square, the 10am Sunday jazz Mass at St. Augustine, and gumbo at civil-rights landmark Dooky Chase's. A friend sends you here to understand where the culture comes from. Go respectfully: it's a living neighborhood, not an attraction.

Key facts

Frequently asked questions

What is Congo Square?

A plaza inside Louis Armstrong Park where enslaved Africans gathered on Sundays to drum, trade, and dance — one of the few places in America where African music survived openly, which is why jazz histories start here. Drum circles still happen on Sunday afternoons. The park is free, open daytime hours.

How far is Tremé from the French Quarter?

It starts literally across Rampart Street — Congo Square is a five-minute walk from Bourbon. St. Augustine and the heart of the neighborhood are another ten minutes beyond. Cross at Armstrong Park or St. Philip and you've changed worlds in two blocks.

What is Tremé famous for?

It's arguably where New Orleans culture was born: enslaved and free people of color gathered at Congo Square to drum and dance from the 1700s on, seeding jazz, second lines, and Mardi Gras Indian traditions. It's also the country's oldest African American neighborhood, and yes, the HBO series was named after it.

Is Tremé safe to walk around?

The main daytime corridor — Governor Nicholls, St. Philip, around the church and Armstrong Park — is fine with normal city awareness. It's a real, working neighborhood, so skip the aimless wandering after dark and rideshare to evening destinations. A guided walking tour is a great option and puts money in local pockets.

What is the jazz Mass at St. Augustine Church?

Sunday 10am Mass at St. Augustine (1210 Governor Nicholls St), one of the oldest Black Catholic parishes in the U.S., with a gospel-jazz choir that will move you regardless of your faith. Visitors are genuinely welcome — arrive early, dress respectfully, and drop something in the collection. Don't treat it as a show; it's a service.

How do I see a second line parade?

Second lines roll most Sunday afternoons from roughly late August through June, each week in a different neighborhood — WWOZ's Takin' It to the Streets page posts the route sheets. If one passes, you're welcome to join behind the band. Bring water, cash for the sidewalk vendors, and comfortable shoes.

Can I visit Dooky Chase's and what does it cost?

Yes — the legendary Creole restaurant where Leah Chase fed civil-rights leaders serves a lunch buffet (around $20) Tuesday through Friday 11am-3pm, plus Friday dinner. Closed Saturday-Monday, so plan around it. The fried chicken and gumbo carry a century of history; dress nicely-casual.

Is the Backstreet Cultural Museum worth it?

If you care about Mardi Gras Indians, second lines, and jazz funerals, absolutely — it's an intimate, personal collection of hand-sewn suits and photographs, now on St. Philip Street. Open Tuesday-Saturday 10am-4pm; admission pricing has shifted recently, so check backstreetmuseum.org before you go.

Nearby in Ask New Orleans

• Treme Playground and Backstreet Cultural Museum Green SpacePark0.35 km · 4 min walk
• Backstreet Cultural MuseumAttraction0.35 km · 4 min walk
• St. Louis Cemetery No. 1Landmark0.47 km · 6 min walk
• Bar ToniqueBar0.52 km · 7 min walk
• New Orleans African American MuseumMuseum0.54 km · 7 min walk