Mercado del Progreso

A working-class neighborhood market that has operated since 1889 and remains almost entirely untouched by gentrification or tourism. The ground floor is a proper wet market with butchers, fishmongers, and greengrocers, while the perimeter has small lunch counters serving honest Argentine home cooking. It is the kind of place where regulars greet vendors by name. Caballito is a bit off the beaten path for visitors, but the Subte B line stops nearby.

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